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Reluctantly leaving behind the charms of Dungarpur, we drove 3 hours north to Udaipur, and turned off the main highway for Shikarbadi, the 1940s hunting resort of the Maharajas. It is set on the shores of a lake and has it's own little seasonal lake in the centre. The surrounds of the property are well wooded hills, where spotted deer, nilgai and wild boar roam in good numbers. There are sitting areas around the fountained lawn and swimming pool, with hill views, and often a herd of deer can be seen while enjoying a quiet drink. Nights are silent except for the crickets, owlets and night jars. Our room no. was 10, and it was not only very comfortably appointed by a good view of the hills on one side and the artificial waterhole where deer come to drink on the other. We saw some good horses and polo ponies in the stud farm, which offers riding lessons, horse back trips and long safaris towards Mt Abu or Jodhpur. That evening, we went for dinner to the Shiv Niwas Palace, which is a part of the huge City palace complex of Udaipur : in fact, Raiasthan's largest city palace, comprising 7 wings built by different rulers from the 16th to the 20th century, but well integrated enough to look like one single palace facade. The Shiv Niwas is entered through a lawn in the forecourt, with a marble elephant fountain in the centre, a fresco on the wall and a platform with domes where a band was playing. The inner courtyard is equally beautiful, and has a lovely swimming pool . Around the swimming pool are arranged tables and chairs for romantic candelit dining. The Mughlai food was excellent, but oriented to European taste buds and so was bland for some Indians.We tucked into mushroom and peas curry, a tandoori platter, shaan e murg and paneer tikkas. We also saw, on invitation by the manager the imperial suites of the Shiv Niwas which are real classical beauties comprising something like 6 rooms apiece- sitting room, dining room, bedroom, bathroom, dressing room, and a study. It has arches inlaid with glass and crystal chandeliers. One of them even had a fountain playing by the bedside. The windows brought in views of the lake, with the Lake Palace and the Jag Mandir Palace, the latter illuminated at night. [page 1]

Part 2 of this article will be featured in August. Watch for it!

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Anil Mulchandani is the owner of North West Safaris and Travel Services and undertakes consultancy for travel and tourism in the Gujarat - Rajasthan region. You can contact him at this email address: ssibal@ad1.vsnl.net.in. Dinesh Shukla, the photograher for these beautiful photographs, does free-lance photography. You can see more of his works at: www.ahmedabadcity.com/html/dinesh.html. His phone number: 079-6610609, fax: 079-6560962